![]() ![]() Put the score line slightly over the edge.ĥ. I try to go about 1/2 of the way deep making it real easy to break off my section.Ĥ. You don't need to cut all the way through it. You should start plowing up long strands of plastic. Now pull the hook end along the line while applying a bit of pressure. Use the tip end of the knife on the first few passes to cut throug the protective film cleanly.ģ. Hold the level firmly down on the plexi and use the plastic knife to cut a score line. Find something long an straight, like a level, as a cutting guide.Ģ. Cut a spare set as well just incase you screw up the first one.ġ. Get a plastic / acrylic cutting knife as well so you can also cut your own pieces at home. If you purchase a sheet from Lowes they should cut it for you for free. Dremal cutoff wheel and router (optional)ġ. Inkscape is free and is sufficient for this. That's a standared size sheet of paper.ħ. Tip: You can always cut an 11"x17" sheet in half if you don't need such a large area. But it was well worth the $45 as I have used it to make plates on 6 amps so far. Preferably 11x17 sheet if you are making faceplates. For the faceplate background or lettering. 1 sheet from Lowes is enough to make several sets of faceplates and logos. Heres a list of the materials and equipment needed for the process:ġ. What I finally came up with is a cost effective method to acheive professional looking Plexiglass logos / faceplates using readily available materials and standard tools. So, I did what any good DIYer would do attempted to make my own faceplates. No way was I going to spend $100 for faceplates when I only had about that much invested in the rest of the amp. This all started when I built an amp out of recovered and spare parts. I happen to fit into the frugal category. But it usually comes at a pretty steep price, which goes against the frugal nature that some of us DIY'ers practice. You could have someone else to do it for you. ![]()
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